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Legacy Part II -- The Real Work

February 25, 2018 Elisa Callow
Illustration by Simone Rein.

Illustration by Simone Rein.

It may be that when we no longer know what to do
we have come to our real work,

and that when we no longer know which way to go
we have come to our real journey.

The mind that is not baffled is not employed.

The impeded stream is the one that sings. 

From The Real Work, a poem by Wendall Berry

 

leg‧a‧cy1 /ˈleɡəsi/ ●○○ noun (plural legacies)  1 something that happens or exists as a result of things that happened at an earlier time.

I have always visualized the conferring of legacy as handing over a metaphoric basket of values, stories or experiences from one generation to another. The basket is held for just a few moments by two sets of hands and then once again by one set, when both are assured that the transfer is complete.  In some cases, there is a physical connection remaining, something that links one to the other.

In my case, legacy is revealed through my stepmother’s sewing machine, a Singer Featherweight, weighing no more than five pounds. It carries with it powerful memories of Margie, who as a young woman saved and waited and finally bought something that she used and cared for most of her life. When she became too old to care for it herself, I received it. Simply opening its case releases a scent of old leather, reveals dryness of threads and bobbins and a perfectly tuned machine—essence of Margie. It holds so much more than itself.

Amelia holding her Grandfather’s clippers. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Amelia holding her Grandfather’s clippers. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Amelia McDonald holds a pair of clippers in her hands, owned and used for years by her grandfather, who began his life in this part of the world as an itinerant citrus picker. The tool is surprisingly small--a little workhorse that survived and was passed down despite years of seasonal travel between Redlands and San Bernardino and beyond.

Citrus legacy, McDonald Farm. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Citrus legacy, McDonald Farm. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Amelia began her career as a trial lawyer, but after 20 years, she was done. The link to her grandfather’s past as a citrus worker materialized after his death. 

“My family grew this farm. My grandfather’s family picked citrus from camp to camp without a penny to spare. He became a mechanic at Norton Air Force Base and was industrious and successful enough to buy his own home, which he left to me."

She and her husband were able to buy a small house on a 1.8 acre tract of land in Altadena from this inheritance. McDonald Farm has been in existence three short years, and is described as a work in progress. Amelia is well aware that her investment in citrus is driven by a sense of legacy rather than practicality, but she balances out this expense by growing four seasons of crops, producing eggs, and raising meat birds and goats.

For others, past experiences themselves can be a form of legacy. I see them as synaptic hooks—the small but sufficiently memorable experiences that accumulate to send us on a new path.

For Michael Martinez, the work he now finds himself immersed in began many years ago as a first time teacher in Florida. A student asked him how to grow a Cheeto, prompting him to develop a small school garden comprised of six raised beds. The garden became the focus of his school community and a source of pride for his students. They not only understood where food came from, but became active participants in its production through the cycle of composting to soil, seeds, plants, food and back to composting.

Michael Martinez

Michael Martinez

Returning to Los Angeles, Michael’s idea of “telling the story of food” to a larger community revolved around the cyclical creation of compost. He and a small “army” of bike riding friends picked up food scraps from restaurants and juice bars to create compost to give away or sell at local farmers’ markets. The income supported school gardens, the first being Merced Elementary in West Covina, where Michael was once a student. In the first few months, the “army” collected more than 30,000 scraps of food, but the model was unsustainable. “Burnout was inevitable and what we learned was that the riders providing this service and the people receiving compost were still disconnected.”

He framed a different question: “How do we empower and equip the community to take ownership of this material and not see it as waste or a disposable item, but as a resource?” Four years later, the idea has a name: LA Compost, Soil + People, and its big idea is played out through a model of community hubs, where composting is an additive and an essential part of the cycle of food development.

“Each hub reflects the community in which it is located, but they all serve the same purpose. They keep organics in the community and they create a shared space where individuals can come together to learn and ultimately be a part of something bigger than their individual selves.”

In the coming, year, LA Compost will open 10 more hubs.


“If your life's work can be accomplished in your lifetime, you're not thinking big enough.”

Wes Jackson, cofounder of The Land Institute

 

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Beautiful vegetables growing in compost rich soil at the Elysian Valley Community Garden, one of LA Compost's hubs. 

Beautiful vegetables growing in compost rich soil at the Elysian Valley Community Garden, one of LA Compost's hubs. 

Photo of the McDonald Farm. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Photo of the McDonald Farm. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

My conversations with Amelia and Michael have led me to reconsider what I know about the characteristics and meaning of work and the connection to legacy. 

Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

The idea of cost/benefit must include environmental sustainability. Amelia lives at her farm transporting her goods by electric golf cart to the Altadena farmer’s market less than one mile away. She teaches goat husbandry to 4H classes on site and conducts farm-to-table education and fundraising meals. A detailed ledger of expense and income is a necessary tool to understand and transform an “expensive hobby” into a business that is defined by the tenets of quality and ethical food production.

Growth as a requirement for success is no longer a given. L.A. Compost’s importance to others is additive. They do not manage the whole of anything; rather they add value to existing gardens. By ceding control, Michael can use resources more effectively and tailor what they do to each community hub. A new California state law, AB126, requires a phased in recycling of organic waste over the next few years. It is the stick to an idea that may be more fully embraced by the carrot of an engaged and growing community that understands the impact of turning the unwanted into something of value.

We control little, but through our choices of where we put our effort, we can inflect our idea of ourselves in small but crucial ways.

From An Absorbing Errand, by Janna Malamud Smith

For both Amelia and Michael, a memorable experience—a student’s question, the gift of a family farm—set them on a new path, one that diverged from more conventional careers as attorney and teacher.  And the particular endeavor they share—their participation in the emerging field of ethical food development—in turn bestows a legacy for future generations.

Charlotte McDonald standing on the compost pile. She is planting her own micro-garden of edible flowers and herbs and is a budding entomologist. 

Charlotte McDonald standing on the compost pile. She is planting her own micro-garden of edible flowers and herbs and is a budding entomologist. 

And finally, a quote from one of my dad’s favorite writers:

Work is about a search for daily meaning as well as daily bread, for recognition as well as cash, for astonishment rather than torpor; in short, for a sort of life rather than a Monday through Friday sort of dying.”

From Working, an oral history by Studs Terkel

In the spirit of ethical food development, today’s food selections are purposely simple, constructed from a base ingredient that provides the beginning of many sources of nutrition and deliciousness, cream, masa and eggs. 

The variations come from leftover bits and pieces you can easily find in your refrigerator.  The cost savings from the creative use of your bits and pieces means more to invest in high quality, ethically produced ingredients.

 

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Legacy Part I

February 11, 2018 Elisa Callow
Ficus Tree Root, Huntington Tropical Garden, Pasadena. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Ficus Tree Root, Huntington Tropical Garden, Pasadena. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

To move freely you must be deeply rooted.

Bella Lewitzky

 

I’ve learned that change is a process that happens over time. Sometimes it seems to lie dormant, then it emerges, then it seems to stop, then it seems that all of a sudden—there it is.

Sue Kujawa

Retired director of Mother’s Club, now Families Forward. From Why Do You Do What You Do?,

published by the Durfee Foundation

 

In August of 2017, Sumi Chang sold Europane--a beloved Pasadena bakery and community center. Years ago, Sumi baked our wedding cake and delivered it personally. She welcomed a newly retired friend of mine as a volunteer baker into her kitchen. I saw her sweep the crumbs off the floor after a particularly rambunctious group of toddlers left; she treated her staff with unfailing kindness. With seeming effortlessness, she created a common table for us all. As the first to create beautifully crafted pastry and bread in this area, she paved the way for an exuberant and growing generation of local food makers. When telling friends about her decision, I heard many variations of what I would describe as the sound of loss: a deep intake of breath, then “oh no”, "why?" and "are you sure?” 

Ships Coffee Shop in west Los Angeles, circa 1980

Ships Coffee Shop in west Los Angeles, circa 1980

My 90-year-old mother speaks about the closing of Ship’s Coffee Shop as a form of psychic homelessness. For many years she went to this spot daily for oatmeal, coffee and toast. She has always been a socially adept loner--a person who needs interaction, but in small doses. The coffee shop hit all the buttons for her as it does for many of us.

I understand from her and from Sumi Chang and the Europane community that certain places own a greater part of our souls than we might realize.

This week’s post found its form through a series of conversations about legacy, primarily with food makers whose common thread is a deeply personal commitment to the art and craft of what they do. What do they consider to be their work’s legacy? What do they believed is non-negotiable and how do they plan to steward this legacy?

Ficus Tree Root, Huntington Tropical Garden, Pasadena, California. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Ficus Tree Root, Huntington Tropical Garden, Pasadena, California. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

A Tao of Legacy

As described by:

Julie Campoy, owner of Julienne Restaurant, San Marino, daughter of Julienne's founder, Sue Campoy

Sumi Chang, formerly of Europane Bakery, Pasadena

Zenobia Ivory, co-owner, Bonnie B’s Smokin’ BBQ Heaven, Pasadena

David Mas Masumoto, farmer and writer, Masumoto Farm, Del Rey

And Claire Peeps, Executive Director, The Durfee Foundation, Santa Monica

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Top Line:  Zenobia Ivory, Claire Peeps, Bottom Line: Sumi Chang, and Julie with long time chef, Marcelino Dominguez. Photos of Zenobia and Claire by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Passion is Transferable:

Very few had planned to enter the work that has become so closely identified with them. The confluence of family responsibilities or chance evolved over time into a sense of creative opportunity. Mas left his father’s farm for UC Berkeley as quickly as he could, knowing from hard work in the summers what farm life meant. Zenobia, a nurse and nursing instructor, agreed, along with her son Michael, to take on her family’s 45 years of barbeque making when her sister-in-law’s health failed. The Loma Prieta earthquake in San Francisco put an end to Julie’s promised management position at a large hotel in San Francisco.

So, I went home, I was sitting at that table and my mom said, “help that person,” and you know what? I never went back. I had to make 75 salmon in filos.

Julie Campoy

As an exchange student in Japan, I became interested in my family, in the small village where my grandparents came from and loved the farm.  And the irony, while there, I wanted to work with my family.

Mas Masumoto

 

Continuity  

In a sector known for its poorly paid, transient workforce, the opposite is true for these businesses. Marcelino Dominguez, head chef at Julienne’s has been there for 30 years followed by many others of 20, 15 and 10 years.  When selling her business, Sumi advocated first for her employees, describing their experience and skill as core to Europane’s ongoing legacy as much so as her recipes. She waited for buyers with enough business acumen to assure continuity in her staff's employment. Mas is moving from seasonal clusters of workers to a regular team of three to four people who can be guaranteed ongoing work with decent compensation.

All relate to their customer community with specificity and affection. During interviews with Sumi, Zenobia and Julie, we were stopped continuously by friendly regulars. These regulars have scoped out particular tables and days, are known by name and carry with them a sense of belonging that rivals some families.

This community supported us when we were in dire straits as a family. We grew up here, our roots are deep. It has supported us—we are very grateful. Never take anything for granted.

Julie Campoy

Julie with Norm, a Julienne regular.

Julie with Norm, a Julienne regular.

Mas’ connections extend from his ongoing and personal relationships with chefs--most notably Alice Waters--to a growing legion of peach and nectarine adopters who commit to paying for the care of trees and then harvesting their bounty; and to a  wider distribution to organic retail stores. Despite its relative smallness, the Masamoto farm is building a new model for food that is grown and shared.

An authentic path is rarely straight

The tenets of business--efficiency, cost savings, scalability--are challenged by the expressed values of passion, the process of “organic” growth and investment in employees. Peaches are picked when ripe; crops are grown without fungicide; a sauce is on slow simmer; the pastry is rolled by hand; growth is restrained by the requirements of quality.

I never had a business plan, I never mapped out that we were going to farm organically – partly that is the joy of it--you are following your interest.

David Mas Masumoto

You know what? It’s the sauce, the barbeque sauce. We actually make our own sauce back in the kitchen. We don’t put it in a pressure cooker; we are literally standing over the stove with our own ingredients for five or six hours.

Zenobia Ivory

I am most proud of the employees. It is a collective effort and key to our reputation for quality and consistency.

Julie Campoy

Work ethic first and foremost, doing what is right, no short cuts, a sense of the community.

Julie Campoy 

Ficus tree root, Huntington Tropical Garden. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Ficus tree root, Huntington Tropical Garden. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

A Tao of Letting Go   

 

I often whisper to myself, “This farm is going to kill me.”

David Mas Masumoto

from Wisdom of the Last Farmer: Harvesting Legacies from the Land

 

I do think the organizations with sturdy legacy have a strong heart and culture. The people remaining still love and revere their former leadership.

Claire Peeps in speaking about her experience with nonprofit leadership transition

 

For many I spoke with, the entrance into their life’s passion was more kismet than intention, but the sense of stewarding legacy is deeply felt by all and is based on a number of considerations; How do I leave? Is there someone to carry the “basket”? Are the qualities and essence of my legacy worthwhile, transferable and therefore enduring?

Julie ensures the continuity of her mother’s legacy by recognizing and exemplifying values that read like the mission of a nonprofit. She is balancing the commitment to tradition with careful expansion and additions to the restaurant.

Julienne values on the wall of the office.

Julienne values on the wall of the office.

Mural of Bonnie B’s family members beginning third from the left: Clarence Henderson, Bonnie Henderson, Dr. Geller (stepfather to Bonnie and Clarence), Moms/Joy Henderson Geller (mother of Bonne and Clarence, grandmother of Michael). Photo by Sally …

Mural of Bonnie B’s family members beginning third from the left: Clarence Henderson, Bonnie Henderson, Dr. Geller (stepfather to Bonnie and Clarence), Moms/Joy Henderson Geller (mother of Bonne and Clarence, grandmother of Michael). Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

Sumi Chang in her civilian clothes and her favorite tools of the trade from her Europane days.

Sumi Chang in her civilian clothes and her favorite tools of the trade from her Europane days.

Six months after the sale of Europane, I received a note from Sumi.

We are in Dalat Vietnam. What beautiful people. I am enjoying their smiles and hospitality. Dalat’s weather is cool and breezy. We are going to visit a flower farm and a coffee farm. We love this city.

Yes, I will give you any recipe you want. I would love to share one of my favorite recipes with my dearest customers. I appreciated so much their loyalty. Also, one of my favorite kitchen tools is a mini spatula. 

P.S. I will be back in PASADENA on Feb. 6

xo, Sumi

 

Nikiko and Mas Masumoto at the Masumoto farm, photo courtesy of Valley Public Radio.

Nikiko and Mas Masumoto at the Masumoto farm, photo courtesy of Valley Public Radio.

And Mas is now redefining succession as partnership and transition with his daughter Nikiko, also a graduate of UC Berkeley who returned to the farm after being given the choice to leave. They are involved in a delicate dance of relationships, father/daughter, partner/boss. The legacy of the Masumoto family lies in an understanding that continuity means welcoming change. Mas’ father took a chance on his son’s commitment to farming organically. Mas is welcoming Nikiko’s understanding of newer platforms for communication. Together, they are searching a balance between the physical demands of farming organically with a desire for a rational workload.

You must live life with the full knowledge that your actions will remain. We are creatures of consequence.

 Zadie Smith

For this week’s post, I leave you with some tangible forms of legacy.

Sumi did make good on her promise and generously provided me with some of her earliest and most loved recipes: Pear Cake and Bread Pudding. 

For more cooking pleasures, Celebrating with Julienne by Sue Campoy with Julie Campoy

and The Perfect Peach by Marcy, Nikiko and David Mas Masumoto

For a completely satisfying read:

Wisdom of the Last Farmer: Harvesting Legacies from the Land by Mas Masumoto

And last of all, Peter Drucker’s groundbreaking article, What Businesses Can Learn from Nonprofits

Like father, like son--pie bakers John and Eric Callow.

Like father, like son--pie bakers John and Eric Callow.

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Handwork

December 10, 2017 Elisa Callow
Photo of Melissa Cortona’s hands, chef and butcher. 

Photo of Melissa Cortona’s hands, chef and butcher. 

While growing up in sunny California I experienced the drama of the seasons by reading the literature of places in the world where the cold forced a quasi-hibernation. In my imagined world, all outdoor work ceased other than to feed those ever present horses by holding on with one hand to a rope tied securely between home and barn while carrying a pail of oats in the other. The world turned white; everything growing was buried, but inside the cottage all was snug and dry.

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Left: Heidi with the Alm Uncle; Right: Van Gogh’s The Potato Eaters

I chose to imagine an industrious scene where handwork was the order of the season. My mind’s eye summoned Heidi rather than Van Gogh’s Potato Eaters. This was the season of sweater knitting, blade sharpening, net and clothes mending, and carving--activities that ranged from maintenance to creative expression and, as I believed, kept those snug inhabitants from going stir crazy. I love the rhythm of seasonally based tasks. But here in Southern California the structure of what we do and when we do it is at times self-imposed. There are many who maintain a practice of handwork even while the sun is shining and the coldest temperature is in the high 40’s.

hand·work

ˈhan(d)wərk/

noun

1.     work done with the hands.

 

What a broad definition! We could easily identify a bundle of sub-categories, from fine art to bean counting. For this week’s post, I winnow down the description to those that straddle creative expressiveness and utility. And within the question of utility, a whole nesting doll set of questions around efficiency and ethics.

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Top right: photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

Ophelia Vallecillo making masa.

Ophelia Vallecillo making masa.

Frau Fiber’s activity archive. Craft and Folk Art Museum, 2013 | Carole Frances Lung

Frau Fiber’s activity archive. Craft and Folk Art Museum, 2013 | Carole Frances Lung

We Can Be Stewards 

Frau Fiber, seamstress and artist 

Carole Frances Lung was born in San Francisco and grew up in Huntington Beach of working class parents with little resources for the kind of clothing that would allow her to fit the teen culture requirements of a fairly affluent area. So Carole took to a sewing machine at the age of 11, making most of her clothes, and in doing so, entered a lifetime of investigating the meaning and value of labor, first through the “lived experience in the fashion industry sitting behind a sewing machine for hours and having my job off-shored in the early aughts,” and now, as director of a storefront studio/hive of activity, The Institute 4 Labor Generosity and Uniforms in Long Beach, its name a tribute to the International Women’s Garment Union—the ILGWU.

The Institute and her alternative identity, Frau Fiber, grew out of Carole’s experience hosting a store front shop in graduate school at the Bauhaus University of Art and Design in Weimer, Germany. Frau Fiber and Carole, despite distances of geography and culture, represent a similar commitment to independence from consumerism. “They” host the Sewing Rebellion, a monthly participatory mend and making event where an “army” of faux fraus are inducted into the service of handwork through a series of workshops.

Frau Fiber at her sewing table with the Wheel of Wages

Frau Fiber at her sewing table with the Wheel of Wages

Carole/Frau Fiber leads with humor but finishes with something more lasting. Her more recent ventures are a series of “tailor-made” pop-up shops, where customers bring garments for altering or repair. Displayed prominently in the shop is the Wheel of Wages. With a quick spin, a customer can determine the hourly payment for the work completed, ranging from Cambodia’s 45 cents to France’s $11.03. 

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When a friend and I met her at her recent pop-up hosted by Santa Monica’s Camera Obscura Art Lab as an alternative to Black Friday and Cyber Monday, Frau Fiber was tackling the seam of a well-worn costume owned by one of her customers. Taking out the old seam is a labor intensive process that assures a flatter finish. The time invested in this action was certainly more costly than the garment itself. But this was not the point. Behind her, a blackboard of customer orders indicated that this performance piece had transitioned into service for the community.

Image of peach from Ted Talk by Nikiko Masumoto

Image of peach from Ted Talk by Nikiko Masumoto

Mas Masumoto, farmer and writer 

I met Mas more than 10 years ago at his farm in Del Rey, California. Even more than the grand sweep of the 80 acre farm, I remember his removing peaches from the branches of the trees. It was April, when the peaches were hard, greenish-yellow in color, and the size of golf balls. In other words, not ready to be picked. All of them looked the same to me, and it seemed wasteful to lose so many.  He explained that too many peaches on the branch would stress the tree and the quality of the remaining fruit. A choice had to be made: fewer peaches in order to grow exquisitely delicious fruit.

Mas Masumoto, farmer and writer

Mas Masumoto, farmer and writer

This story leads me to consider even more metaphoric and endless possibilities in Mas’ fertile mind and farm. He has taken the lessons learned from his and his family’s decision to save their fussy, hard to grow heirloom peach trees as a form of reverse engineering.

 “What would it mean if I maintained these trees? What would I need to do?” The answers have been compelling and meaningful enough that Mas and Marcy’s daughter Nikiko has returned to the farm from Berkeley with a degree in Women and Gender Studies. The context of the family farm holds enormous possibilities to test her values. “If she wanted to be the most radical, she would come back to one of the most conservative, most patriarchal of cultures and start to carve out a role for herself as revolutionary.”

One such action is the farm’s Adopt-a-Tree program. It, too, began as a way to finance the much more expensive heirloom peach cultivation and harvesting and has bloomed (sorry) into a powerful method for bridging the gap between consumer and farmer.  “They (the adopters) have to decide, is this the time to pick this peach? It is no longer a commodity exchange. One tree can yield 300 to 400 lbs. of fruit. And it opens the door to the whole relationship and network around food, how food is grown and shared.”

Tynesha Daniels, student and emerging poet  

A final example of stewardship was engendered by a young student’s deep immersion with nature through the Children Investigate the Environment program.  As I hike through Eaton and Las Flores Canyons, I am convinced I see former participants, now adults, continuing to enter nature with confidence and joy.

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Never mistake motion for action.

Ernest Hemingway

And so, there is an emerging meaning of choice in how we conduct our lives. I began with the question of handwork, with its implicit and very real inefficiencies, and end with a sense that there are more reasons to do what we do than efficiency and financial gain. What does it mean to do something against the grain? What is the risk both personal and practical? There are numerous and growing examples of individuals who “reverse engineer” around values instead of finances–and in doing so understand the need to develop a larger army of stewards, rather than anonymous consumers.

For the holiday season, I promise not to lecture and hector (even though the impulse is mighty). As always, I leave you with alternative gifts for now and for the upcoming seasons of your life.

Make time for a real visit with someone who matters to you.

Tend to something that is broken.

Visit and support the many handworkers among us.

Cook with a friend. Recipes can add to your forays into handwork.

And in the summer, eat a peach that has ripened on the tree. At first glance, it may seem to cost more, but it actually does not. The taste and the delight it brings are priceless.

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Photos above by Ann Cutting

The Urban Forager will be on holiday hiatus until the first of the year, busily preparing the gifts of handwork. If anyone is interested in learning to make marmalade, let me know. Till 2018.

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A Seasonal Guide to Slowing

November 19, 2017 Elisa Callow
Running Past the Pie in Little Tokyo, Los Angeles

Running Past the Pie in Little Tokyo, Los Angeles

Many years ago, the artist Tim Hawkinson occupied the entire gallery space at Pasadena’s Armory Center for the Arts, including the little used storage closet in the rear of the gallery. He brushed latex onto its lozenge-shaped black interior and inflated a giant balloon in the main gallery space, where it wheezed to its fullness via a homely, visible pump and then deflated slightly. Hawkinson’s work has always been the apex of transparency, as it illuminates the actual gears and levers of how something works.  And yet his work remains magical, maybe because we are privy to something never seen or thought of before.

Tim Hawkinson, Spin Sink (1 Rev./100 Years) (1995) Gears, metal, plywood, foam, plastic, corduroy, toy motor.

Tim Hawkinson, Spin Sink (1 Rev./100 Years) (1995) Gears, metal, plywood, foam, plastic, corduroy, toy motor.

He even tried his hand at visualizing time through a series of wheels, the first turning maniacally on a tiny gear train at 1400 rpm, the last on a gear train so large that its rotation would not be completed within our lifetimes – 100 years or so. The wheels turning at different speeds, fast to imperceptibly slow, reminded me that a great deal of activity or progress is not visible. There is a form of hidden momentum in slow moving change that hovers somewhere in the background. The thought often calmed me when I felt overwhelmed by the relentless demands of running a non-profit.

As we enter the holiday season, I have noticed two schools of coping as the wheel of requirements begin to spin merrily and madly. The first is to soldier on, the most competent of us having organized our gift purchases, e-cards, food ideas and party planning well before we are safely out of the extended heat spell called Summer/Early Fall. The other school withdraws, going out of town, eating take out Chinese, ignoring the whole thing altogether. I find this latter group quite self-disciplined, as the reminders of our next big seasonal milestone are everywhere.

Little Tokyo Window

Little Tokyo Window

South Pasadena Street Sign

South Pasadena Street Sign

Ubiquitous Orange Table Setting. Photo by Jeanette Stramat

Ubiquitous Orange Table Setting. Photo by Jeanette Stramat

Today’s post is an attempt to moderate between a seasonal speed that cannot be sustained (or at least enjoyed) and complete stasis. The recipes are all ones that require very little “active time.” Rather, they simmer, roast, pickle or separate into curds and whey while you are otherwise occupied and sometimes happily tucked in, dreaming.

Goat Cheese, with thanks to the Institute of Domestic Technology for its many doors to food exploration. 

Marcella Hazan’s Bolognese Sauce

Lisa’s Famous Turkey Breast

Margie’s Cucumber Pickles

But First--What We Know About How We Spend Our Time, with Thanks to the Bureau of Labor Statistics

What an amazing site this is for data geeks like me! It identifies how we as Americans spend our time. From what I can see of the 2016 data, we spend a good deal of time on sleeping/personal care and working. Coming up a distant third is recreation, with screen time our most consistent recreational pal.

Household Activities in 2016

"Watching TV was the leisure activity that occupied the most time (2.7 hours per day), accounting for just over half of leisure time, on average, for those ages 15 and over. The amount of time people spent watching TV varied by age. Those ages 15 to 44 spent the least amount of time watching TV, averaging around 2.0 hours per day, and those ages 65 and over spent the most time watching TV, averaging over 4.0 hours per day." Bureau of Labor Statistics

 

While I admire precision in classifications, I disagree with the notion that housekeeping (which includes cooking) should remain a separate category from those of self-care or recreation. I make my case below:

A “Two-Fer” is so Much More Fulfilling than Multi-Tasking

“The true secret of happiness lies in taking a genuine interest in all the details of daily life.”

William Morris

Going regularly to your local Farmers Market expands the idea of required task into recreation and self-care. If in a slo-mo frame of mind, I allow all manner of conversations and connection. There is a sense of a commons engendered by consistency of relationships between buyer and seller, neighbors and friends, and even the vaguely familiar faces of the regulars.

16th century Spanish market.

16th century Spanish market.

 For Alex, the four-year old grandson and cook in training, there is an emerging respect for food. He is learning to handle more fragile produce carefully, and asks before he touches.
 
There is the sense that despite slightly higher costs, you are actively supporting local farmers and ethical farming practices, and sustaining a variety of food types and sources. (And as the food is fresher, it lasts longer and less is wasted.)
 
As the grower is often there, you can find out what an unknown product is for. They are happy to teach.
 
And did I mention quality and taste?
 
Something must be working, as farmer’s markets now number more than 8,000 nationally, up from 2,000 in 1994.

Alex then 3 at the Pasadena Saturday Farmers Market, enjoying the entertainment.

Alex then 3 at the Pasadena Saturday Farmers Market, enjoying the entertainment.

Anna Thomas and Meanwhile Cooking

In her twenties, Anna Thomas had the hubris to write a cookbook, The Vegetarian Epicure, while in film school at UCLA. Her dual life, one of screenwriter and faculty member at the American Film Institute, the other as prolific cookbook writer is proof of her prodigious energy and, for the rest of us mortals, the human necessity to move with some regularity from head to hand work.

Anna Thomas' first cookbook, The Vegetarian Epicure.

Anna Thomas' first cookbook, The Vegetarian Epicure.


“…a friend of mine calls this ’meanwhile cooking.’ Get up and go to your kitchen, and cut a few vegetables to put into the pot and do whatever, to start it cooking. Meanwhile, as it is simmering, you can answer a few emails — and you feel refreshed. You are only doing one thing at a time, but you vary your routine. You are not looking at a screen. You are doing something tactile and pleasant and it brings you back to yourself. It is a great kind of experience to work into your life.” 

Anna Thomas

Anna Thomas beginning her Fuyu Persimmon Salsa in my kitchen. (The persimmons were “foraged” from her neighbor’s tree.)

Anna Thomas beginning her Fuyu Persimmon Salsa in my kitchen. (The persimmons were “foraged” from her neighbor’s tree.)

Try Fail Succeed


“If you grow up with cooking, it is like a language. It is immersion. It is part of the texture of your life.” 

Anna Thomas


Surprisingly, using “convenience” foods saves only a negligible amount of time when compared to a meal cooked from scratch. The barrier to home cooking, it seems, has more to do with a lack of confidence leading to a rigid adherence to a recipe rather than a fluency that comes from understanding interchangeable flavors and basic techniques.

Instead of thinking of recipes as open ended guides, we shackle ourselves to lists of ingredients requiring yet another dash to the store. Try looking in your refrigerator or pantry for a flavor cousin for inspiration: chard for spinach, shallot for onion, carrots for parsnips, Parmesan for Manchego.

You will waste less food and begin your own recipes, made from a bit of confidence and what you have on hand. At times, the food will be less than sterling. So be it. As we all know, meals are ephemeral at their best or worst.

Average Hands-On Dinner Time, From a favorite book in my library, Life at Home in the Twenty-First Century.

Average Hands-On Dinner Time, From a favorite book in my library, Life at Home in the Twenty-First Century.

For more recipes that are based on scraps and ingenuity, I suggest from the Urban Forager Archives, Refrigerator Foraging as Micro-Activism and The Pattern Language of Soup.

Sweet Dreams!

 

 

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72 Small Seasons —72 Small Celebrations

November 5, 2017 Elisa Callow
The Keeley/Cotter house on Halloween eve.  Photo by Dennis Keeley. 

The Keeley/Cotter house on Halloween eve.  Photo by Dennis Keeley. 

A bright autumn moon…

         in the shadow of

         each grass

An insect chirping

                                             Issa

Between last week and this, we have finally entered Pasadena’s fall equinox, decidedly later than the actual date of September 22nd. The welcome dip in temperature by more than 30 degrees, the dampness turning to drizzle and then to rain, the change in light from blinding to oblique, all of which culminates in Halloween.

Halloween, the morning after at the Callow's. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

Halloween, the morning after at the Callow's. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

I contend that October 31st should be our new equinox—a later date with a nod to our new normal. Hotter, longer summers and a feeling of hosanna when the air turns dewy.

We have been fooled before, a cool day here and there, only to be disappointed by another week of heat-stroke inducing temperatures. But now we are in it for the long haul and my favorite time of year, fall.

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Photos of Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden in Pasadena by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

In Japan, a country known for a depth of observation and celebration of the physical world, there are 72 micro-seasons -- Shichijuni-kou 七十二候 -- aligned to earlier customs and patterns that fit neatly into 24 sub-sections. These 72 are so much more fulsome than our miserly four seasons, dependent more upon haiku-like observations of phenomena than an inflexible calendar date.

Azola Plant at the Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden in Pasadena. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

Azola Plant at the Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden in Pasadena. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

And there is a slower, almost imperceptible slide into each next stage.These delineations inaugurating the Fall equinox and ending with the beginning of Winter are felt as well as visualized:

Thunder ceases

Insects hole up underground

Wild geese return

Crickets chirp around the door

Light rains sometimes fall

Maple leaves and ivy turn yellow

I searched and found my mother’s worn and well used book of Japanese Haiku, containing poems that track in four short lines of verse and metered syllables the same subtle journey of the year’s unfolding.

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Bold brash Autumn blast

         blundered into

         the bamboos…

Then the grove fell still

                                                      Basho

 

November sunrise…

         Uncertain the storks

         still stand…

Bare sticks in water

                                             Kakei                                   

Inspired by this poetic sense filled calendar, I have created my own micro-seasons for summer’s last gasp and the relief of fall. Food, as usual, takes a central role.

The Urban Forager’s Suggested Micro-Seasons, with apologies to the elegance of the Haiku form.

 

Berry fruit jam

     A distant memory…

Marmalade returns!

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Photos of jams by Ann Cutting. Jamtone ©2017, All rights reserved.

Photos of jams by Ann Cutting. Jamtone ©2017, All rights reserved.

Quick breads of overripe fruit 

      Persimmons become pulp

as we forget again…

Photo by Ann Cutting.

Photo by Ann Cutting.

Caramel, caramel, caramel

     and that apple

stickiness lingers…

Grandchild Alex at preschool about to try his first caramel apple. 

Grandchild Alex at preschool about to try his first caramel apple. 

Night darkens early…

     Walk quickly home

Skulls are everywhere

Annual skull cake baking, a Halloween tradition, with grandson Anthony.

Annual skull cake baking, a Halloween tradition, with grandson Anthony.

Too many pomegranates!

         harden in a bowl…

Strange tools sometimes

Table set for Halloween dinner. 

Table set for Halloween dinner. 

And

Long walking, slow cooking

     Cold days…

Warming bowls in hand

Vegetable stock on its way. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

Vegetable stock on its way. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

The Tea House at the Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

The Tea House at the Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

Another delight in dividing our year into 72 micro seasons is the explicit reminder to stop and notice as a form of open-ended codifying of experience. If there are 72 moments to collectively remark upon, my guess is that some of them are quite intimate in scope.

A case in point was a recent walk post-Halloween to record my neighborhood’s response to this celebration of night, identity change and wholesale gorging. Instead of documenting squashed pumpkins and faux grave yards, I participated in a completely satisfying micro-drama unfolding as three neighbors and I helped reunite Molly, the dog, with her owner. One woman held the goofball on a leash; the other posted a notice on our neighborhood blog and called animal control. I intercepted a worried looking woman walk/running down the street by yelling out, “Is that your dog?”  just as animal control arrived.

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And so, I end with one last micro-season notation that has resonance for the entire year without the brevity of the Haiku form.

“Lowly, unpurposeful and random as they appear, sidewalk contacts are the small change from which a city’s wealth of public life must grow.”

Jane Jacobs, Tireless activist and advocate for the value of urban life.

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And the recipes this week?  Warming, seasonal delights:

Christiana's Chocolate Beet Cake

Quick Persimmon Bread

Citrus Marmalade

And many, many uses of pomegranate besides covering yourself in a plastic table cloth and eating the seeds.

And one last image...echoes of Edgar Allan Poe. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

And one last image...echoes of Edgar Allan Poe. Photo by Sally Kreuger-Wyman.

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The Pattern Language of Soup

October 22, 2017 Elisa Callow
Drawing of girl eating soup by grandson Anthony, age 12.

Drawing of girl eating soup by grandson Anthony, age 12.

Travelling overseas for a few days captures the invisible—the very structure of our lives made visible by the sheer displacement of one pattern with another. My internal clock is wrestling with an eight-hour time change but curiosity and the compression of a short, few days’ visit to Paris force my body to move when I should be tucked in. And without much conscious thought, my traveling companion and I are eating the French way--simple bread, butter, cheese, coffee in the morning; an expansive lunch with wine; more cheese, bread, fruit and paté for late dinner. Staying in an apartment in  the 13th Arrondissement adds another layer of easy familiarity. This is a neighborhood filled with more local inhabitants than tourists, and so the bakery is a bakery without the frills of a café au lait on the side. In the morning, we take our warm packages of pain traditionnel and brioche home. We remember in the evening to buy another loaf and carry it home, just like so many other folk—a common silhouette for day’s end.

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The Pattern of Breakfast, Day 1, Day 2, Day 3

The nature of patterns is made even more explicit by Pattern Language, a homey looking book first published in 1977 by Christopher Alexander and colleagues as a guide to considerations of architectural planning that go well beyond a single edifice. In a vast and organized list, they break down planning into 253 considerations that place built structure within the syntax of community and personal habit. There is a utopian sense about the list, as it urges us to consider ideas made real through the built environment:

A Pattern Language

A Pattern Language

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10. Magic of the City

28. Eccentric Nucleus

40. Old People Everywhere

46. Market of Many Shops

63. Dancing in the Streets

107. Wings of Light

The book is a liberating kit of breathtakingly thoughtful parts, allowing even the novice to pay attention to architectural elements that are often invisible, but do so much to shape our sense of well-being.

There appears to be a natural impulse toward pattern that holds a gentle and persistent presence even in the midst of one of our most distracting contexts, the city. 

Parisian vegetables placed carefully in rows--the pattern of visual repetition.

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Grandson Alex asleep with his red boots toothbrush holder and Little Golden Book of Daddy Stories--the pattern of habit.

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Luxembourg Gardens--the pattern of public and private spaces. Photo on the left by Noriko Gamblin.

At home on the weekends, whenever possible, I cook for the week. This is different than what my time pressed parents did--making a raft of casseroles to be frozen and stored. Before leaving for work, my mother removed one such block of potential nutrition to defrost for the day. By evening, we did enjoy something relatively healthy and often good tasting along with salad and hot bread: Sunset Magazine’s Western Meal in One, my dad’s Black Bean Soup and the provenance unknown “Swedish” Meatballs.

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My pattern is to create recipe building blocks similar to Pattern Language’s kit of parts to encourage us to eat well and deliciously for the week. These are made as “instant” food to be used when needed and a counter to the sense of ennui that leads us all to the ready-made.

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Above, a package of freshly grated cheese at the ready. Below, a salad with roasted almonds. Photo by Ann Cutting.

Above, a package of freshly grated cheese at the ready. Below, a salad with roasted almonds. Photo by Ann Cutting.

I roast almonds to be chopped into salads or added to hot cereal. I bake muffins or a quick bread as well as my go to bread for the week, the 21-Hour Boule often served with melted cheese in the morning or in the evening after a long day. I often make crème fraiche or Goat’s Cheese requiring only a bit of planning and barely any hands-on time. And I wash and dry many, many vegetables so that the idea of salad means a simple meditative act of tearing lettuce and chopping a bit of something.

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Without fail, in the fall and winter, I make soup—the king or queen of what I call the Pattern Recipe.

  • Melt a generous knob of butter or a tablespoon of olive oil in a large pot
  • Caramelize onions with salt and seasonings (perhaps a bit of sugar for extra sweetness)
  • Add vegetables
  • Add broth
  • Cook for awhile
  • Blend
  • Serve with crème fraîche or sour cream or pesto 

The challenge of capturing pattern as a lifestyle is amply displayed by my internet search --over ten pages of assistance and exhortations. This is the tenth page on the subject.

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My suggestion is less complicated-and tasty too. Make soup! Here to help you on your way is the “Pattern Language of Soup” with its many kits of parts. Till next time.  

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Cousins, Learning Together and Extending Welcome: Comfort Food Revisited

October 8, 2017 Elisa Callow
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Far right: Photo by Dennis Keeley.

Leave the door open for the unknown, the door into the dark. That’s where the most important things come from, where you yourself came from, and where you will go. 

Rebecca Solnit, A Field Guide to Getting Lost

Recently I have been carried back to my family’s past by an unexpected connection from a possibly long-lost relative living in London. We spoke by phone, attempting to retie the threads that have been loosened by time, war and relocation. For both of our sakes, I pulled out a large and unruly pile of family photographs, interleaving the 20th and 21st centuries, and allowing me to recognize a fleeting resemblance among many of us. The most striking is what appears to be an engagement picture of my grandparents, rumored to be first, second or maybe third (is there such a thing?) cousins.  They appear to be shaking hands in a form of chaste romanticism. They both own the full lips that are a part of my daughter’s beauty. The strong features that contributed to my grandfather’s dandy handsomeness and a self-conscious homeliness in my grandmother are there as well. Similar, but different; their roots in a common parentage a generation or so prior, and then diverging.

And with this idea of similar, but different--the reinforcing and effacing of distinguishing characteristics-- my thoughts turn to the focus of so many of my considerations, food. Today’s post is propelled by the end game of encouraging all of us to take on the mantle of food explorer and to wade into unfamiliar waters. But, never fear; I have provided three sturdy guides to motivate and encourage.

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The comfort of the familiar as surprising cousin to the unknown.

The comfort of community and learning together.

The comfort of welcome.

Illustrations by Simone Rein.

Food Cousins: The Origins of Fish Sauce

Ketchup and Fish Sauce are surprising food cousins. Fish sauce made its first appearance more than 500 years ago when sailors from Fujian Province in China transported barrels of the flavoring with them to ports near and far. For some reason, British sailors, who usually favored  the bland and boring, developed a taste for this pungent sauce when they arrived in Southeast Asia in the 1600’s. Soon thereafter, they began exporting it home, where its transformation into today’s most ubiquitous condiment--ketchup--began.

Ke-tchup Etymology and History – an abbreviated version

Ke-tchup/Fish Sauce              Vietnamese Nuoc Cham Fish Sauce              Thai Naam Pla Fish Sauce

  • Tchup =  Hokkien for sauce
  • Originated in Fujian Province, China
  • Fujian settlers take ke-tchup to Indonesia, Siam, and Malaysia and points beyond
  • Exported to Britain
  • Mushrooms added
  • Tomatoes added
  • Anchovies and mushrooms dropped
  • Sugar added for preservation

Perhaps more important, is the consideration of fish sauce as your friend and reliable condiment in the kitchen. For this, we turn to its deconstruction: it is made up primarily of anchovies fermented by salt and time. I offer you three recipes that are given verve and delight by this flavor profile of salty, fishy umami: Caesar dressing, Italian Meatballs and Vietnamese Chicken with Cucumber Pickles and Fried Shallot. This collection represents the wide-ranging cultures of Mexico, Italy and Vietnam, proof of fish sauce’s versatility. And as a bonus, there is Mujetdereh, an Armenian soup/stew. Its connection to the others is revealed through the recipe.

Learning Together

Many hands make light work.

John Heywood (c. 1497 – c. 1580), English poet and playwright

 

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How we first experienced food can be a strong indicator of what level of comfort we now feel in the kitchen.

There are the self-taught “survivalists,” whose developing knowledge is a defense against their family’s uninspiring to inedible fare. Yet, many others can point to food mentors--a grandma, nona, bubbe or aunt--who welcomed the emerging cook into their kitchens.

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From the author's notebook learning to use banana leaves and squash blossoms as tamale wrappers. 

My husband’s proficiency with pie baking traces its beginnings to his Aunt Beanie’s instruction. These techniques, skill-based and often requiring time and repetition, also lend themselves to communal work--the creation of food as quilting bee or barn raising--an added benefit in my mind.

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Barn raising from the film, Witness.

Lately, I have been insinuating myself into a number of food mentors homes where we cook side by side. I have learned that what matters more than precision with ingredients is understanding technique. My growing confidence has led me to transfer these skills to other food lexicons, much like learning a foreign language lends proficiency with others.

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Rumi Mahmoud has taught me patience while cooking. “A very important thing in Indian cooking is to braise the spices; otherwise they are very raw tasting. Test by taste and color and never add water until the flavors are consolidated.”

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Right: Photo by Sally Krueger Wyman

Chef Francesca Mallus has taught me about different characteristics of pasta dough and which works for filled and unfilled versions.  Pasta, like jam making, has grabbed me through its gorgeous simplicity (salt, water, flour, and sometimes eggs) and its unending sculptural variations.

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Chef Steve Brown would answer my question, “Is it done?” with the answer, “I don’t know. Why don’t you go check?” In other words, use senses as a guide more so than time.  

Extending Welcome

Armenian proverb

Armenian proverb

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Last, but definitely not least are the circumstances that allow us to try something new. For those of us with a cooking mentor, we already know that food making is a source of nourishment for body and soul. But for others without this history, holding the metaphoric hand of a friendly host who demonstrates love through care is hands down the best way to feel safe enough to try something new.

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Comfort Food Redux – A Field Report

September 24, 2017 Elisa Callow
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“Pastrami was our madeleine.”

Marilyn Brass, cook and cookbook author of Baking with the Brass Sisters.

 

At what point do we identify something as comfort food, and what makes it so?

By definition, comfort food is designed to trigger memories that take us to a time of safety and familiarity, nourishing both body and spirit.

But for me, fortunate inhabitant of the vast county of Los Angeles, comfort food is continuously re-defined expansively and often surprisingly so as one of the more exquisite and tangible consequences of immigration.

Eating places are embedded in neighborhoods; some of these venture out into more mainstream communities, followed or led by the food suppliers--from corner stores to super markets--specializing in  particular ingredients that create a sense of comfort and by extension home.

In my mind and heart, the idea of comfort food is not a fixed memory of a particular dish such as my grandmother’s schav, a cold sorrel soup that provided such relief on a hot Chicago summer’s day. Any taste experience, no matter what the source or time frame, can land easily in my comfort food column.

I wondered why some of us can make the psychic and palate leap from Cream of Wheat to congee, from bologna to andouille -- and some cannot? There is mounting understanding that fear of anything new--food neophobia--is influenced by genetics and early survival instincts. "Avoid the untried as it is probably dangerous." And then there is the middle of the arc, those who moderate somewhere between Jonathan Gold and the folks who eat nothing more than buttered noodles. For the somewhat cautious, but willing to place toe in the water before swimming, this week’s post is dedicated to you.

An excerpt from a Finnish study on pickiness (food neophobia), which gives you an idea of how involved this subject is.

An excerpt from a Finnish study on pickiness (food neophobia), which gives you an idea of how involved this subject is.

Back to the Beginner’s Mind and the Story of the Spider

"Too much comfort is like a spider whose web is both a home and a trap.”

Hirokazu Kosaka

And so, I push myself into food markets where 90 percent of what I see is a mystery. In a recent foraging expedition, my puzzled face became an invitation for acts of kindness and welcome in every store I entered. Without fail, I was approached by a variation on the Nona/Grandma, whose knowledge of a particular food culture was as deep as her desire to teach. As an enthusiastic learner, I was ready for any tidbit that came my way.

I learned that:

  • Masa made on the premises is better than the dried packaged stuff.
  • To make a better salsa, it is best to blacken the jalapenos first.
  • A salsa can be made mild, medium or scorching depending upon the ratio of chilies to tomatoes and onions.
  • The pre-made masalas are not as good as making a masala from whole spices that roasted first and then ground.
  • Indian stores are treasure troves of choices for ghee (clarified butter), lentils and chai.
  • Certain brands of oyster sauce are exceedingly better than others. (I have the good stuff now.)
  • The mystery greens in Asian markets are used to flavor soups and stews or can be stir fried. When very young, they can be eaten uncooked in a dressed salad.

In so many cases, there is the similar food “cousin” that acts as a bridge to the unfamiliar ingredient.

The sweet, Chinese sausage so much like pepperoni (but even more delicious); bitter greens that are interchangeable with kale or arugula; a fat slice of Oaxacan egg-infused bread spread with butter and sugar that is equivalent to a brioche; a tiny dollop of tamarind paste that could double as dried apricots or plums and adds umami to a chicken marinade or baked winter squash.

My pantry is now bulging with new ingredients after a month of foraging. I have gorgeous saffron and a small package of tamarind paste purchased from the Punjab Grocery; smoky colored cellophane noodles made out of sweet potato, delicate chrysanthemum greens and oyster sauce from 168 Market; and from La Mayordomia, a bottle-green colored bowl-shaped mortar designed for grinding chiles. 

Marina Lopez at La Mayordomia buying family feast ingredients; chorizo and morcilla. Her husband was carrying a 10-pound bag of fresh masa. On the spot, she invited me to come and help cook and learn. I plan to. I am holding the packaged tortil…

Marina Lopez at La Mayordomia buying family feast ingredients; chorizo and morcilla. Her husband was carrying a 10-pound bag of fresh masa. On the spot, she invited me to come and help cook and learn. I plan to. I am holding the packaged tortillas – wrong!

Clerk at Punjab grocery who gave me a tour of all of the spice variations;, whole, ground, and already combined into pre-packaged masalas. He advocated for homemade.

Clerk at Punjab grocery who gave me a tour of all of the spice variations;, whole, ground, and already combined into pre-packaged masalas. He advocated for homemade.

View fullsize  The beautiful vegetables at 168 are impossible to resist: cucumbers, Japanese eggplant, zucchini and bottle gourd.
View fullsize  Wrapped piloncillo at Mayordomio, a solid brown sugar that tastes delicious when grated over hot milk or toast.
View fullsize  Jackfruit looking disturbingly like beached sea lions at 168, has no food cousin. Therefore it is challenging even to me.

From left to right: The beautiful vegetables at 168 are impossible to resist: cucumbers, Japanese eggplant, zucchini and bottle gourd. Middle: Wrapped piloncillo at Mayordomio, a solid brown sugar that tastes delicious when grated over hot milk or toast. Right: Jack fruit looking disturbingly like beached sea lions at 168 have no food cousin. Therefore they are challenging, even to me.

Baby Steps

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Two young brothers make one of the quintessentially comforting breakfasts of all time, buttered bread and chocolate milk in François Truffaut's film, Small Change. 

To make the move to the unknown irresistible, I turn now to a sampling of children’s comfort foods from around the world. Predictably, they are amply represented by the trifecta of starch, fat and sweet, and nearly all of them depend upon a slice of something to hold the yum. After a sampling by two tasters, the hands down favorite was from Spain --toast with broiled olive oil, chocolate and salt--followed closely by a family favorite of mine, peanut butter sprinkled generously with sugar and then broiled to a caramelized deliciousness.

Next time, we go swimming into more challenging waters. Enjoy!

Nutella on bread. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Nutella on bread. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Various comfort toasts. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

Various comfort toasts. Photo by Sally Krueger-Wyman.

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On the Road

August 20, 2017 Elisa Callow
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Left: Rumi Mahmood showing off his newest knife and cooking accessory. Right: Mario Rodriguez with his mother's molcajete. Photo by Ann Cutting.

"He was a bold man that first ate an oyster."

Jonathan Swift

For the next few weeks, I return to my favorite of all activities--urban food foraging--to remind myself of the extraordinary delights that can be partaken by entering fully and with energy into the great sprawling complex of our Los Angeles food culture. To begin my travels, I checked in with two home chefs, Mario Rodriguez and Rumi Mahmood, whose skills in the creation of great food are well beyond the norm.

Mario is a food ingredient maven, rarely entering any community without “eyes on the side of his head” --the quintessential hunter-gatherer looking for something interesting, authentic, and unknown. He has deconstructed multiple varieties of sausages, red beans, and the dried shrimp made for an Easter-time favorite, Tortitas de Camarón.

And every year in December, he hosts what might be the most rarified tamale making session known and invites his friend and well known chef David Féau to join him. Their experiments include duck confit tamales with foie gras enriched masa along with Piccolo Fiore Al Tartufo cheese filled tamales surrounded by truffle infused masa.

Mario knows that the baker at Panaderia Delicia in Highland Park is good because he learned from a brother, the long-time baker at Dos Aguilas, on Whittier Boulevard in East Los Angeles. How? Because Mario recognized a similar baking style and quality of their pan dulce apple empanadas.

Rumi, a Bangladeshi native, experienced a number of cultures as a child and young teen because of his father’s career as a diplomat. After a short posting in Manila, where Rumi attended an American International School, his parents sent him to live with his older, college bound brother in St. Louis to continue his high school education. Necessity being the mother of invention, Rumi figured out how to recreate the family’s dishes. He has since moved well beyond these first dishes in expertise and imagination. A good friend and very fine chef, Onil Chibàs, first introduced me to Rumi and I have been a very fortunate guest at his table more than once.

"If you really want to make a friend, go to someone’s house and eat with him… the people who give you their food give you their heart."

Cesar Chavez

The common table is a favorite metaphor as it means so much of value to me: gathering, sharing, tasting, learning. This short post is an invitation to us all to enter the cooking and eating traditions that are so amply represented in our community’s common table, but unknown to us. The list is long and somewhat rambling, reflecting a desire for what I call intentional wanderings.

Join me if you wish and let me know how you have fared. And if you have some favorite spots, don't hesitate to share them with us all.  

Back in a month!

Your Urban Forager

Map of markets and food resources from Mario and Rumi. Illustration by Simone Rein

Map of markets and food resources from Mario and Rumi. Illustration by Simone Rein

  1. Best Buy Meat - 7108 Crenshaw Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90043
  2. Bhanu Indian Spices - 7246 Rosemead Blvd, San Gabriel, CA 91775
  3. Claro's Deli - 19 E Huntington Dr, Arcadia, CA 91006
  4. Deshi Restaurant and Groceries - 3723 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
  5. Expression Oaxaquena - 3301 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90019
  6. Gardena Marukai - 1740 Artesia Blvd, Gardena, CA 90248
  7. India Food and Spices - 2221 Huntington Dr, Duarte, CA 91010
  8. La Espanola Harbor City - 25020 Doble Ave, Harbor City, CA 90710
  9. La Princesita Tortilleria - 3432 East Cesar E Chavez Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90063
  10. Little Tokyo Marukai - 123 Astronaut E S Onizuka St #105, Los Angeles, CA 90012
  11. Los Cinco Puntos - 3300 East Cesar E Chavez Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90063
  12. Panaderia Delicias - 5567 N Figueroa St, Highland Park, CA 90042
  13. Panaderia Dos Aguilás - 5945 Whittier Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90022
  14. Papa Cristo's - 2771 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90006
  15. Rincon Argentino - 1375 E Colorado St, Glendale, CA 91205
  16. Schreiner's - 3417 Ocean View Blvd, Glendale, CA 91208
  17. Spain Restaurant Los Angeles - 1866 Glendale Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
  18. Super A - 5250 York Blvd, Highland Park, CA 90042
  19. Super King Market - 2260 Lincoln Ave, Altadena, CA 91001
  20. The Mercado - 3425 E 1st St, Los Angeles, CA 90063
  21. The Punjab Store - 1300 E Main St #101, Alhambra, CA 91801
  22. The Truffle Brothers - 4073 W Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90018
Mario shopping at The El Mercado De Los Angeles. Photo by Ann Cutting.

Mario shopping at The El Mercado De Los Angeles. Photo by Ann Cutting.

Rumi in his kitchen. Photo by Ann Cutting.

Rumi in his kitchen. Photo by Ann Cutting.

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Less is More – A Camping Manifesto

August 6, 2017 Elisa Callow
Tent at the Cerro Alto Campsite, Atascadero, CA. Photograph by Dennis Keeley

Tent at the Cerro Alto Campsite, Atascadero, CA. Photograph by Dennis Keeley

For me, camping is the pinnacle of negotiating our relationship between essentials and extras, with quiet and extreme beauty often increasing proportionally to a campsite’s remoteness--and the necessity to pare down. At its best, living with less can be a form of creative integrity, allowing us to consider how we are actually going to use an object, be it decorative or practical, before we make psychic or physical space for it.

 At one time during our years overseas, my family lived in this Nipa house in the Philippines. No windows, no electricity, Coleman lanterns and gecko lizards at night. 

 At one time during our years overseas, my family lived in this Nipa house in the Philippines. No windows, no electricity, Coleman lanterns and gecko lizards at night. 

As a Peace Corps “brat,” I accompanied my family on a number of dislocations that required my parents to shed most of their material goods as what we carried to future postings had to fit neatly into a wooden shipping crate. I have often thought since of the westward journeys of pioneers holding their family histories in one carefully packed trunk. But the time overseas did not represent sacrifice, as the trade-off of immersing myself for years rather than days in other cultures more than offset any loss of material goods. I took my clothes, a record player, the size of my algebra book, and a few records--the latter necessities for this 13-year old.

As an inveterate fusser, I have never found a small backpack and light as a feather mummy bag to work for me even though the rewards of roughing it have been richly described by intrepid aesthetes, poets and even my husband, who once slept partially suspended on the rock face of Mt. Owen in the Grand Tetons.

Leaves scarcely breathing

in the black breeze;

the flickering swallow

draws circles in the dusk.

 

In my loving

dying heart

a twilight is coming,

a last ray, gently reproaching

 

And over the evening forest

the bronze moon climbs to its place.

Why has the music stopped?

Why is there such silence?

From Stone:24 by Osip Mandelstam, translated by Clarence Brown and W.S. Merwin

 

Instead, I am a car camper because I love to cook here as at home and feel the smug satisfaction of reverse engineering all of my meals to leave nary a scrap behind when returning home. I love a campsite’s slowness that allows for simple, one pot meals made on a one-or two-burner camp stove and even the hiss of propane. And I love extracting the most from very little, knowing that ice will melt, food cannot be stored indefinitely, and my counter space is an 8x12 cutting board. Every object in our kitchen in a box represents the spare history of our camping adventures: the same speckled plates, aging red-checked oil cloth and red plastic coffee cone that yields such morning delight.

Our Kitchen in a Box. Photograph by Simone Rein. 

Our Kitchen in a Box. Photograph by Simone Rein. 

When we return home, these essentials are washed and packed away. We return to living with more, with the accumulation from earlier generations--my parents' Rosenthal dishes, Aunt Beanie's celadon-tinted Havilland along with our own habit of unfettered book purchasing.

Through one long car trip home, we seem to have jumped eons in human development from nomadic hunter gatherers to settled accumulators.

There is nothing new about this pleasure in simplicity, well described by Thoreau and others. And so, I looked to more recent examples of individuals who negotiate the question of need and want with great dexterity.

Stepmom Margie resting with some camping gear behind her, circa 1958. 

Stepmom Margie resting with some camping gear behind her, circa 1958. 

Neighbor Elizabeth Barber's wall of essentials. I love the pattern of the objects against the wall. 

Neighbor Elizabeth Barber's wall of essentials. I love the pattern of the objects against the wall. 

Brother-in-law David's kitchen with essence of ship galley. Only the necessities for his cooking style. Photograph by David Callow.

Brother-in-law David's kitchen with essence of ship galley. Only the necessities for his cooking style. Photograph by David Callow.

The nexus between doing with less and delight is often found in the creation of the simplest of foods, easily created, whose enjoyment is heightened by circumstance.

Here for you to explore are recipes that do not stint on taste despite their death of ingredients and ease of preparation: Eric’s Dutch Oven Biscuit Techniques, Crèpes, Pan Fried Grilled Cheese Sandwich and what I like to call All Purpose Pesto. All of these can be more easily made in your home kitchen, but taste so much better at a campsite--or through the patina of memory. 

Here, as well, are two evocative food histories, the first a description of a first memory of a meal that intertwines love, warmth and nourishment during a time of intense deprivation. The second is from my good friend Toti, who began cooking as a child in Italy and whose description of the discipline and magic of that faraway kitchen echo her later experience as a dancer and artist. 

I was born in 1940 in Germany. The Second World War was over in 1945. We lived from potatoes and we had no heat. My grandmother would get up very early in the morning and put some wood and coal in the stove to cook the potato. When I woke up, she would have a boiled potato ready. I remember, she would put a potato in my hand and make sure it was not too hot but warming for my hands, cut it open and put salt in it. And I would spoon it out, absolutely delicious—so simple. Thinking of it—it has a lot of meaning to me.

Rainer Shildknecht, Architect

I had to develop faith: through the apparent stillness a metamorphosis would happen. Sure, like the sun in the sky, like tomorrow, like summer. Later, I have practiced the same philosophical virtue while beating egg whites. It is the same process: you sweat steadily for about 20 minutes, while nothing happens. When you are ready to give up, the fork finds a pleasant resistance. One more minute, and the slimy fluid becomes foam. You can shape it into self-standing mountaintops. It holds the fork if you drop it. Just the opposite of an iceberg melting, but equally impressive.

Toti O’Brien, Artist, from Notes from a Culinary Education

And finally, two more reasons for finding time and space for less. Happy camping!

Night sky photograph by Dennis Keeley, from the Cerro Alto camp site in Atascadero. 

Night sky photograph by Dennis Keeley, from the Cerro Alto camp site in Atascadero. 

The floor, moonlit, the moon behind you, is not enclosed by walls; a patch of sky is hidden by distant trees. But a patch of floor is itself hidden by the sky’s legs, standing on it, and this cannot be the opportunity for useless thoughts.

The Legs of the Sky by René Magritte translated by Jo Levy

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We are on the cusp of high jam season. Strawberries are growing in profusion, and soon we will have my favorite - - stone fruit. Watch for the stone fruit jam class at Descanso Gardens. .
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Fennel ready to be steamed  in my favorite new tool. .
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My favorite tool for the year and now a part of my cooking repertoire almost daily--the beautiful bamboo steamers that are stacked like building stories. So easy...so inspiring. .
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Masako Yatabe Thomsen's baskets of vegetables. This is how she preps food. Every step is aesthetic .
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